Sunshine & Salsa in San Juan

The capital city of Puerto Rico, San Juan, is more than just a port of call on your Caribbean cruise or a layover on your way to the BVIs. It is a fun place to experience some culture--a mix between European (from its history with Spain) and latin (from its location)--along with the usual sun and sea you get with a Caribbean vacation. And perhaps the best part is that it is a direct flight from several major cities on the east coast making it very convenient. In just about 4 hours you can be transported from the 30-degree snowy weather in Boston to the salsa club, mojito in hand. It is these two things--culture & convenience--that give San Juan an advantage in my book. Here are my reccos on what to see/do/eat/drink and where you should call home on this island.

WHERE TO STAY

San Juan has an old, historical center where most of the action (and culture) is however there are not many hotels to choose from in this area and it is sans sand. To hit the beach, you must venture outside of the old city walls to areas like Condado or Isla Verde. If you want the nicest beaches in the area, appreciate being close to the airport and don't plan on spending much time in Old San Juan then Isla Verde fits your bill. But if you want the best of both worlds--having a (small) beach AND being close to the cultural city center--then Condado is the better choice.

Condado is located about 10-15 min by car from Old San Juan and has a good selection of hotels and resorts to choose from. I had the pleasure of staying at the Condado Vanderbilt, a 5-star hotel that opened in a historical mansion in December 2014, and highly recommend this to anyone who can afford it. Rooms during high season can be pricey but sites like Expedia often offer discounts and recently I've seen rooms going for less than $300/nt (the Zika effect maybe?). This luxurious hotel boasts 3 pools with an oceanview (perfect for enjoying your piña colada), glasses of champagne upon check-in, one of the best spas on the island (Turkish hammam anyone?) and comfy rooms with gorgeous marble bathrooms. It is located on a small, rocky beach but guests have access to the public beach next door or can use the amenities at the La Concha hotel also located next door. (Condado Vanderbilt Hotel, 1055 Ashford Ave. San Juan)

Views from the lobby of the Condado Vanderbilt hotel 

View from our room overlooking the Condado coastline

The terrace at the Condado Vanderbilt hotel 

My favorite of the 3 pools at the Condado Vanderbilt 

WHAT TO DO

1. Explore Old San Juan - The old city is a must-see with its cobblestone streets, colorful buildings and historical fortresses. Get as far away from the cruise ships as possible to truly experience the charm this place has to offer (the area around Calle Sol, Calle San Sebastián, Calle Luna, and Calle del Cristo is wonderful) and enjoy spectacular views from Castillo San Cristóbal. Oh and of course, no trip is complete without getting a custom-made Panama Hat from Ole Curiosidades! (105 Calle de La Fortaleza San Juan)
2. Visit El Yunque Rainforest - For a little taste of nature, make the 45-minute trek out to the tropical rainforest, the only one of its kind in the U.S. There are many trails for hiking, waterfalls for swimming, or for a little adrenaline rush rent an ATV or zipline through the treetops. (El Yunque Portal Visitor Center, PR-191, Río Grande)
3. Go Salsa Dancing - To really get a taste for some Puerto Rican spice, get those hips moving at Nuyorican Cafe in Old San Juan and experience some salsa music. Don't worry, a little liquid courage is acceptable. (312 Calle San Francisco, San Juan)
4. Charter a boat - Whether you prefer hoisting the sails or living the lux life there are several ways to hit the high seas. Options include a private luxury yacht charter around San Juan Bay with Charters Puerto Rico and a group catamaran & snorkel tour aboard the Spread Eagle II to the picturesque islands off the shores of Fajardo in northeastern Puerto Rico.
5. Experience a natural wonder - Take a kayak through the Laguna Grande bioluminescent bay located off the shores of Fajardo. The bright blue glow emanating from the water at night is worth the hour drive from San Juan.

Colorful buildings along Calle Luna in Old San Juan

Check out those terraces...so pretty! 

Castillo San Cristóbal, one of many fortresses protecting Old San Juan 

Shopping for Panama hats at Ole Curiosidades. So many ribbon options! 

WHERE TO EAT

1. Marmalade - The best of the best that Old San Juan has to offer so don't expect to have a cheap meal here but do expect it to be life-changing. Mediterranean meets Caribbean cuisine using the freshest ingredients. Chef's tasting menus available for a really special occasion. Reservations are a must. (317 Calle Fortaleza, San Juan)
2. Santaella - One of the most-sought after tables on the island is at this hip, chill restaurant located in the lively Santurce neighborhood. Cuisine is Puerto rican using fresh, local ingredients and the craft cocktails are creative and fun. Reservations are a must. (219 Calle Canals, San Juan)
3. Aguaviva - Cute little place in Old San Juan with yummy seafood. Order the ceviche sampler with tostones (fried green plantains) and some pineapple mojitos. Que delicioso! Reservations recommended. (364 Calle Fortaleza, San Juan)
4. Pirilo - Great for a casual night of pizza and beer. Fun atmosphere. Also in Old San Juan. Does not accept reservations. (207 Calle Tanca, San Juan)
5. Oceano - This is the place for upscale Caribbean dining in a modern, beachfront mansion located in Condado. Snag a table outside for lunch with a view or head indoors for dinner in a trendy, sleek atmosphere. Reservations recommended. (2 Calle Vendig, Condado)

 

WHERE TO DRINK

1. La Factoria - Delicious craft cocktails in a hip, rustic speakeasy (yes, there are hidden bars in the back!) with great music in Old San Juan. Ambiance gets A++. Order the Lavender Mule and if you're lucky it will be served in a stainless steel mug with a lavender sprig. Best drink all week. (148 Calle San Sebastián, San Juan)
2. The Mezzanine at St. Germain - Another great craft cocktail bar in Old San Juan that has a more vintage, lounge-like, living room feel to it. This is the place to go if you want a little history with your mojito. Turns out, this place used to be the headquarters for the Puerto Rican nationalist party. (156 Calle Sol, 2nd Floor, San Juan)
3. La Taberna Lupulo - If you need a rest from all the rum, head to this bar in Old San Juan for a lengthy craft beer list served with some proper 80s tunes to delight the ears. (151 Calle San Sebastián, San Juan)
4. La Barrachina - The piña colada originates from Puerto Rico and this place in Old San Juan is where it all started. There is a nice outdoor patio to enjoy your creamy coconut and pineapple creation. (104 Calle Fortaleza, San Juan)
5. Caribar - Located at the waterfront Caribe Hilton hotel in Condado, this place also claims to be where the piña colada was invented. Give both places a try and see for yourself which one does it best. (1 Calle San Gerónimo, San Juan)

So the next time you're looking to plan a trip to the Caribbean, consider San Juan. The quick, direct flights make it a great destination for a long weekend or you have more time, spend half of your week in San Juan and the other visiting Puerto Rico's gorgeous islands of Vieques and Culebra. Buen viaje!

Hola from Old San Juan! 

An old lookout point at the fortress in Old San Juan 

View from the infinity pool at the Condado Vanderbilt hotel 

Cocktails poolside. Cheers! 

Guadeloupe: The other French Caribbean (Part I)

Usually when people think of the French Caribbean or Les Antilles as they are known in French, they are referring to St. Barths or St. Martin. But those two islands make up only half of the French overseas territories. The other half is represented by the islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe (and French Guyana in South America). Up until recently, one would have to take several (expensive) flights to get to these islands and with the popularity of St. Barths and St. Martin, both Martinique and Guadeloupe got overlooked by Americans. Furthermore, most people I talked to had never even heard of them. But thanks to Norwegian Air's cheap, direct flights from Boston, we Americans are now able to discover this other part of the (beautiful) French Caribbean. Guadeloupe is a butterfly-shaped island (technically two islands joined by a bridge) located just south of Antigua. The left or west "wing" known as Basseterre is made up of lush, tropical mountains, rainforests, golden and black-sanded beaches and an active volcano. Conversely, the right or east "wing" known as Grande Terre is more flat and where you will find the white-sanded beaches you associate with the Caribbean. It is also where you will find the island's resorts (and tourists, subsequently) which are primarily located in Le Gosier and Sainte Anne. Located in the middle of the butterfly is where you'll find the island's capital of Pointe-à-Pitre and the international airport where you will land in just over 4 hours (from Boston).

Our group consisting of 3 couples was in search of the white sandy beaches but not really the tourists so we ended up staying on Grande Terre but away from the hotels and resorts in a town called Le Moule. We wanted to have as much of a local experience as possible so we decided to rent a private villa. Yes, we had to procure our own food, but going to the grocery store or the local market was a super fun way to experience local life. Plus, our kitchen was so nice it was practically begging us to use it! And everyone we interacted with was so so so nice and welcoming which made our stay that much more enjoyable.

Finding a villa to rent was a little difficult at times due to a language barrier but I ended up finding a great rental agency, Villa Prestige Antilles, through a property I inquired about on HomeAway. Julie from Villa Prestige Antilles was wonderful to work with and she knew English which was really helpful. We were all blown away by the villa she recommended for us (actually not the one I originally found) and overall could not have been more happy with the place and our week stay.

Belle des Alizés was a 3-bed 3-bath villa with an amazing patio and infinity pool overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The view was absolutely breathtaking and the highlight of this property. All the amenities were super modern, clean and looked as if they had barely been used. The kitchen came fully equipped and we had a brand-new grill on the patio which we got lots of good use out of. The bedrooms were well air-conditioned and two of the bedrooms had en-suite bathrooms with walk-in showers and rainfall shower heads. It was definitely one of the nicest homes we've ever stayed in with a view we could never get sick of.

The villa, despite being away from the tourist towns, was centrally located in a quiet neighborhood, about a 5-minute walk to the beach, a 2-minute drive to a grocery store and a 5-minute drive into the town of Le Moule. We didn't spend a lot of time in town, other than the daily visits to the produce stand (fresh banana daquiris anyone?) and the boulangerie for fresh baguettes. I mean, what's a trip to France without the baguettes? There were a few nights that we decided to venture out for dinner and drinks but we decided to go to the nearby town of Saint François which had a cute marina and lots of delicious options. It was definitely more touristy than Le Moule but still felt authentic (more on that later).

Sound amazing? It was and it is. But before you book your plane ticket, there are a few things you should know about Guadeloupe that makes it different from other Caribbean destinations:

1. Most tourists are from France or French Canada and there are hardly ANY Americans. I think this is because, prior to Norwegian Air's service, it was tough to get to from the States and generally expensive. Which brings me to....
2. Guadeloupe is technically part of France so people speak French, the local currency is the Euro and there is definitely a European vibe. Do not expect a lot of English being spoken however, unlike Paris where people are rude to English-speakers, the locals (and French tourists alike) are so friendly and really do make an effort to communicate through their broken English and our broken French.
3. There are very few resorts or mega-hotels and none of them are the chains that we Americans are used to. No Westin, no Marriott, but there is a Club Med if you're really hell-bent on staying at a resort. We visited Club Med to check out the facilities and while the beach was very nice, the hotel otherwise was not very impressive. Private villa rental is the way to go on this island.
4. A car is a must for getting around, even if you're staying at a resort or at a place in town. But be warned that the roads are somewhat like those you'll find in Europe--narrow, windy and equipped with hidden speed traps. But overall you will be happy you rented one.

The above may deter some but honestly these are the things that made Guadeloupe great and truly unique. Personally, I loved the European vibe and it was super rewarding to exchange some words in French (and actually understand them). And being in a place that is technically part of France meant we ate and drank well too--the Carrefour was stocked full of French cheeses, fois gras, the most delectable butter imaginable, great wine and other yummy French treats (like my fav Krema Régal'ad chewy fruity candies). The pharmacy carried the good sunscreen and skin care products too! For us, it was a win-win.

Overall, Guadeloupe is such a great and relaxing island that you could easily spend an entire week just floating in your infinity pool sipping some French bubbly but there's also lots of good exploring if you do decide to venture out there. Stay tuned for my next post, which will feature a couple of recommendations to do just that. In the meantime, enjoy my pictures :)

The view from our pool

The patio/terrace of the villa with a lovely infinity edge pool

Modern living room inside the villa

Fully equipped kitchen with a bar that leads to the terrace

Master bathroom with walk-in shower and rainfall shower head

Floating all day is hard work

View of the beach from the villa

Bringing pool floats with us was the smartest decision made all week!

The silver lining of the rain shower....a rainbow!