La Dolce Vita — Blog — JETSETTING WITH JESS

In my last post, I focused on the basics of the Costiera Amalfitana--how to get there, getting around once you're there, and where to stay. In this post, I will get into how to spend your time in this amazing place.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

I highly recommend seeing some of these places by boat if you can. Not only is it one of the best ways to get around the Amalfi Coast, it offers a perspective that makes you realize just how massive (and high up) these cliffs are. Your hotel concierge is a wonderful resource for helping you get out on the water.

Praiano - If you're staying in this quaint little town, which I highly recommend, take a few minutes to wander around pretending you're a local. There's not much--think a couple restaurants, a fruit stand, 1 or 2 coffee shops, a small market, and a pharmacy--but the duomo in Piazza San Gennaro, with its lovely colorful tiled dome, makes for a good photo as it towers above the sea below.

Il duomo di Praiano in Piazza San Gennaro

Breathtaking views from Praiano, looking towards Positano

Positano - When you picture the Amalfi Coast, this is likely the town you are thinking of with its colorful buildings crawling up the cliffs. It is a busy tourist destination but is worth visiting, especially for the shopping. Stop into Artigianato Rallo for a pair of custom-made leather sandals made before your eyes, and Boutique Rino di Casola Francesco for some linen tops & bottoms and you'll have the Amalfi Coast look down pat (head-to-toe linen encouraged).

Colorful buildings along the cliffs of Positano

Ravello - Perched high up into the hills is this quaint little town worth spending an afternoon in. Take the bus from Amalfi to reach this picturesque village with lots of cute shops, gelaterias and cafes. Tour the grounds of Villa Cimbrone and make sure you see its Terrace of Infinity. Warning: if you're afraid of heights this is NOT for you. It's so high up that it gave my husband the shakes and there's nothing below you but the sea. Oh, but what a view to admire!

The Terrace of the Gods at Villa Cimbrone

Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei) - A great way to experience the breathtaking views while getting a bit of exercise is to hike along this trail perched high up on the cliffs. It runs from the highest neighborhood of Positano known as Nocelle to Bomerano and is accessible from multiple points along the way including Praiano. It's difficult to find despite doing the research beforehand, so I recommend asking around. And highly recommend doing it it early in the morning before it gets super hot! Don't forget water!

Amalfi - The largest town on the coast packed with tourists, this place is a hub for many of the bus lines but offers a large sandy beach and quaint streets to wander through. Take a break and enjoy a gelato or lemon granita on the steps of the grand duomo.

Capri - One of the most popular islands in this area offering natural beauty, high-end shopping and good food. I like to describe it as Italian Nantucket, because it has that upscale, exclusive flair with many tourists (although they do thin out at night) and you have to take a ferry to get there. For a memorable experience dine under the lemon trees at Da Paolino and visit the main Piazza Umberto for aperitivo. I only spent a short evening here but next time I'd like to spend a few days here to see the famous Grotta Azzurra, I Faraglioni, Via Krupp, and Monte Solaro.

Dining under the lemon trees at Da Paolino

Sorrento - Technically this town is not on the Amalfi Coast but is often associated with it. Located on the Bay of Naples, Sorrento is where limoncello comes from and is doable as a day trip. It is larger and a little more bustling than the towns on the Amalfi Coast with many narrow streets packed with shops, cafes, and gelaterie. I recommend spending time wandering the street Via San Cesareo for a taste of Sorrentine life. And holy cow, check out the size of those lemons!

WHERE TO EAT

Ristorante Il Pirata - This restaurant is located in the rocks of Praiano with an amazing outdoor terrace and ocean view. I highly recommend ordering a seafood dish because it is so incredibly fresh. Plucked from the sea that day! Reservations are a must. (Via Terramare, Praiano)

Ristorante Da Vincenzo - A popular pick up the hill in Positano offering local dishes. There are only a few outdoor tables, but the view is lovely if you luck out. Reservations are a must, especially if you're requesting a table outside. (Viale Pasitea, 172/178, Positano)

Ristorante Caffè Positano - Another great option for local cuisine with a view. Get the spaghetti alle vongole and you won't be disappointed. The staff was so accommodating that they gave us our own private terrace because they heard it was our honeymoon. The view was stunning especially with the strawberry moon lighting up the sky that night. Reservations recommended. (Viale Pasitea, 168-170, Positano)

Chez Black - For something a little different, opt to dine on the beach at this lively spot with a large outdoor patio. The food was outstanding and the staff so nice. Be sure to order a plate of alici (marinated white anchovies), and I promise you will overcome your fear of these delectable little fishes! Reservations recommended. (Via del Brigantino, Positano)

WHERE TO DRINK

The Marrakech Bar - Located inside the hotel Casa Angelina and perched high up on the cliffs this classy bar offers breathtaking views from its outdoor terrace and inviting, comfy, white couches inside. (Via Gennaro Capriglione, 147, Praiano)

Sibilla Cafè - A cute little banco to have your morning macchiato and pastry. There are a few tables outside for those who prefer to sit. Perfect on those mornings you don't want the expensive hotel breakfast or if you're still full from last night's dinner. (Via Gennaro Capriglione, 94, Praiano)

Africana - A swanky nightclub/lounge built into the rocks that's been around for decades. Some of its famous VIP guests include Jackie O. (Via Terramare, 2, Praiano)

Champagne & Oyster Bar at Le Sirenuse - Located in one of the most luxurious hotels on the Amalfi Coast, this is a great place to have a glass of bubbly with a view. It is the place to see and be seen. (Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, Positano)

Music on the Rocks - As the name suggests this is a multi-level nightclub/lounge in the cliffs of Positano overlooking the beach. Great for a cocktail and some live music while the night is still young. The music shifts to a DJ and the party turns up as the night goes on, not stopping until the wee hours. (Via Grotte dell'Incanto, 51, Positano)

Enjoying a glass of bubbly on our private boat ride to Capri

Overall, the Amalfi Coast is a beautiful place to visit and it is one of those destinations that will leave you wanting more. This list is just a taste of what you can enjoy while you're there, but there is so much more of the coastline to discover too. A reason to go back! (And trust me, you'll want to) Thanks for reading along as I got to reminisce about one of my favorite places to visit :)

Looking down from the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello

Aboard Casa Angelina's private boat to have dinner in Capri

Having a caprese salad in Capri is a must!

A year and a half ago, I had the privilege of spending a week of my honeymoon on the beautiful Costiera Amalfitana and I swear my life has never been the same. Italy tends to do that to you and it's so unfair! Every day since then, I've been plotting my return checking flights to NAP on the regular. What makes the Amalfi Coast so special, you ask? The laid back culture, gorgeous views of the Mediterranean and the food, naturally. It is here that I believe the phrase "Il dolce far niente" was born, translating to "the sweetness of doing nothing." Once you go, you'll understand and wonder why it took you so long to visit. Or like me, you'll wonder what it takes to own a villa on the cliffs...hmm... Just so you know where exactly I'm talking about, the Amalfi Coast is the stretch of coastline along the Gulf of Salerno between Positano to the West and Salerno to the East. When planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast I recommend doing your research because it is a large area that is impossible to cover in just a week, two weeks even, so you need to be strategic on where you want to spend your time. Don't try to do it all because you will miss the little bits of culture that make this place so charming.

Despite being off the beaten path, the Amalfi Coast is extremely touristy which can deter a lot of people at first. The easiest way to avoid all the crowds is to choose the right month to visit--June and September in particular offer lovely weather without (as many) crowds. Otherwise, be strategic about which town you stay in. I can speak from experience that there are parts of this region that are less touristy than others so the town you decide to stay in can heavily influence your vacation. We knew we wanted some solitude so with a little research we found the town of Praiano which was next door to Positano. It ended up being perfect because it was small and quiet yet we could easily get to all the action in Positano via hotel shuttle and visit the other towns via public bus. We could also get to the island of Capri which we wanted to see. Others who don't mind the busy-ness of these two larger towns prefer to be in the heart of it all. That's fine too. The important thing is that you get to enjoy what this wonderful area has to offer.

There is a lot to be said about the Amalfi Coast so I plan on breaking it into two parts for digestibility. First, we will talk about getting here and around, and where to stay. In my next post I'll get into the good stuff--what to see, and where to eat and drink. So:

GETTING HERE & AROUND

The Amalfi Coast is reachable by both Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) and Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport (QSR) or alternatively you could arrive to either of these cities via Trenitalia hi-speed train service. From these two cities you will need to take either the public SITA bus or hire a car to reach the coast, making it a little bit tricky to get to. NOTE: The roads along the Amalfi Coast are SO windy and the local drivers are fearless so be prepared (and ginger candies recommended for those who get motion sickness). But the journey is well worth it once you take in the view from atop the cliffs for the very first time. Once you're there, the SITA bus runs pretty regularly between towns if you decide not to rent a car and there is ferry service between some of the larger towns and cities (i.e. Positano to Capri, Naples to Sorrento, Amalfi to Positano and Salerno, etc.).

A long journey from Firenze, but we're happy we finally made it!

If you are arriving via Naples, I recommend spending an evening in this chaotic city. Why? For the pizza of course! Most importantly, this is where pizza was invented and Da Michele (Via Cesare Sersale, 1, Napoli) offers some of the best authentic pies around. They only offer two varieties--margherita and marinara--but after trying one your life will never be the same. Its location is perfect for exploring the old section of town known as Spaccanapoli, a must-see. Secondly, Napoli is where espresso comes from so I recommend that you have a shot of the thick, tasty stuff to fuel your jetlagged day. Gran Caffè Gambrinus (Via Chiaia, 1/2, Napoli), the city's oldest cafe, offers table service and an outdoor patio to enjoy your doppio and traditional sfogliatella pastry. And lastly for those history buffs out there, Pompeii is just a short drive or train ride on the Circumvesuviana line.

Wandering the streets and squares of Spaccanapoli

Pizza and Peroni at Da Michele...best pizza of my life!

WHERE TO STAY

I highly recommend staying away from the crowds where we stayed in Praiano at a place high up on the cliffs for the most majestic views, unless you have mobility issues. There will be LOTS and LOTS of stairs to get down to the beach but they're great for counteracting all the eating and drinking that will be happening. NOTE: Don't expect beaches to be large or sandy--they are usually made up of pebbles instead of smooth sand or consist of large rocks from which you can jump off of (don't worry, there are ladders to help you get out). But the cerulean blue of the Mediterranean is so inviting that you must do as the others do and jump in!

Casa Angelina - It was our honeymoon after all so we splurged on this 5-star resort and it was worth every penny. The upscale hotel is minimalist with large windows and white furnishings to offer a gorgeous contrast against the blue sea outside. Guests have complimentary access to exclusive One Fire Beach Club several hundred steps and a lift below. Relaxing on a bright orange chaise lounge with glasses of prosecco and a side of taralli and large green olives becomes routine. (Via Gennaro Capriglione, 147, Praiano)

Casa Privata - This lovely & stylish 4-star B&B is a great choice and a little easier on the wallet. The 8 rooms are located in a recently restored old fisherman's villa and garden house. The grounds include a pool, small private beach, and an organic garden used in the restaurant's offerings. (Via Rezzola, 15, Praiano)

Hotel Tramonto d'Oro - This comfortable 4-star option includes a cliffside restaurant and pool with sweeping views and access to La Gavitella beach below as well as a shuttle to the only sandy beach in Praiano. Rates are some of the more affordable ones in the area. (Via Gennaro Capriglione, 119, Praiano)

Grand Hotel Tritone - This 4- star hotel might not be as stylish as the others but certainly makes up for it with its facilities. Guests looking to swim and bask in the sun can choose from the pool perched high on the cliff, one of the few private beaches in town, or the pool down by the beach. There's even a restaurant on the beach so you don't have to go all the way up those stairs for a bite. (Via Campo, 5, Praiano)

If you would prefer to be in one of the larger towns and don't mind a splurge or big crowds, check out Le Sirenuse in Positano or Grand Hotel Convento in Amalfi.

The view from our private terrace at the Casa Angelina hotel

Loved having complimentary access to One Fire Beach Club courtesy of Casa Angelina

The hotel Tramonto d'Oro perched high on the cliff

So now that you've picked out a hotel and figured out how to get there, I will tell you how to best spend your time on the Amalfi Coast and where fill your bellies (and hearts). Stay tuned for my next post which will do just that.

Life from under an orange umbrella....One Fire Beach Club

The popular town of Positano as seen from the sea

Welcome to My Blog!

Living La Dolce Vita on the Amalfi Coast (Part II)

WHAT TO SEE & DO

WHERE TO EAT

WHERE TO DRINK

Living La Dolce Vita on the Amalfi Coast (Part I)

GETTING HERE & AROUND

WHERE TO STAY