Amsterdam, the Land of Canals and Pancakes

The next stop after Bruges, on my tour of Northern Europe was Amsterdam. The capital of the Netherlands, Amsterdam tends to make people think of drugs and the red light district when in fact it's barely a part of its culture. The "coffee shops" tend to be filled with tourists anyway, doesn't that say something? But those things, if anything else, do signify how laid back this city is. Strolling along the canals I couldn't help but think how cool this place was and everyone seemed to be enjoying life beautifully. Even though I'm sure they have their problems just like anyone else, these people seemed to be so carefree, riding their cute little bikes along the picturesque canals with delicious groceries and colorful flowers in the basket, pretty blonde hair blowing in the wind. I had to wonder, is this place real? Yes, yes it is. Just a few comfortable hours on the train from Belgium and here I was, in never never land. Amsterdam is an easy city to visit. Just about everyone speaks English thankfully (I still can't figure out how to pronounce Dutch words), there are direct flights from the States, and there are so many public transportation options once you're there--the above-ground tram (think Boston's green line but way nicer), the subway/metro, and buses. It is also laid out in a unique way that helps you get your bearings. Think of Amsterdam Centraal train station being the starting point. From there, canals surround the train station in semi-concentric rings and streets and bridges intersect the rings like spokes on a bicycle.

Most of our time was spent walking around the streets and along the canals, stopping here and there for food and/or drink which was a great way to spend our 2 days. Here I leave you with my reccos.

5 THINGS TO SEE & DO

1. Walk along the picturesque canals. They will not disappoint, I promise.
2. Take a picture in a huge yellow Dutch clog in Dam Square. 'Nuff said.
3. Browse the local offerings at Amsterdam's outdoor street market, Albert Cuypmarkt, located in a must-see neighborhood --De Pijp, which is the city's Latin Quarter.
4. Visit old, working windmills like those found at Kinderdijk or Zaanse Schans, both places accessible by bus and/or train. A real Dutch treat.
5. Admire the tulips in spring. Lonely Planet provides more info here.

With all the seeing and doing, one must eat. The Netherlands is not necessarily known for its cuisine but there are plenty of delights awaiting your arrival.

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT

Café Bern - Despite not being Dutch, fondue is the star of the menu here. This little place is very unassuming from the outside -- no sign and dark due to some unattractive curtains covering the windows -- but pleasantly cozy, warm and buzzing inside. Be sure to order the fondue, obviously, as well as the house steak (Entrecôte Café Bern) which arrives at the table raw with a burner and pan to cook at your own risk. Also, the garden salad tasted especially delicious and fresh, so get one to balance out all the meat, cheese and crusty bread you'll be eating. A carafe of red wine washes down the meal nicely. Inexpensive dinner but cash only. Reservations recommended. (Nieuwmarkt 9)

Lucius Visrestaurant - This is the place to go if you're looking for quality, fresh seafood in an informal yet tasteful setting. The huge fish tank made for an interesting addition to the decor but provided some entertainment for us as we ate right beside it. You really can't go wrong with what you decide for your meal. I opted for Mosselen-friet (those tasty mussels again) and they were cooked to perfection. Reservations recommended. (Spuistraat 247)

The Pancake Bakery - No trip to Amsterdam is complete without having delightful pannenkoeken, and this is the spot to have them. It is super casual, inexpensive, and open all day. The Dutch pancake is similar to a French crepe but slightly thicker and toppings are piled on like you would do with ingredients on a pizza. In this part of the world, they are ordered at any time of day and enjoyed sweet and/or savory. The menu also offers a special variety called poffertjes, which are like the silver dollar variety we Americans know but a little thicker and fluffier. Regardless, there is something for everyone here on the extensive yet authentic menu. (Prinsengracht 191)

Stroopwafels - Possibly the best cookie in all of Europe is the stroopwafel, which consists of two thin round wafers held together by ooey, gooey, syrupy caramel. They are the perfect size to rest on top of your cup of coffee to get warm and they come in a variety of flavors though the original caramel flavor is the best. You can find them in special bakeries around town like the famous Lanskroon Bakery (Singel 385), but honestly the best ones come from street vendors or, believe it or not, the grocery store. Bring home a stack or two, and you'll be glad you did, since the ones imported in the States taste rather unexciting.

A couple of days here was perfect for us although you will see that it is easy to spend more time. Just some words of wisdom before you go. LOOK BOTH WAYS before crossing the bike lanes. They come out of nowhere and are more dangerous than the cars, in my opinion. And lastly, if Amsterdam is your last stop before heading home, make sure to give yourself ample time at the gate and purchase any snacks and water BEFORE YOU GET TO THE GATE. For some reason, you have to go through a screening process to get to your gate which takes some time and there are no shops or restaurants on the other side. Happy traveling :)

The beautiful canals

Being silly with the fishes at Lucius

Dam Square

5 Tips on Traveling by Train in Europe

Okay so I thought it might be helpful if I took a break from writing about all the glorious destinations I've visited to provide you with a little info on train travel in Europe. It's the easiest way to travel within Europe and an essential part of getting around so you're likely to be taking one on your next trip and trips thereafter. Here are 5 tips I put together, from experience, that should make your planning process go a little smoother. AND will help you save some money. Knowledge is power, right?

1. Do not use sites like Rail Europe or The Train Line. Please. They are 3rd party sites that sell you valid tickets, yes, but they often mark up the prices to make a profit. While they take care of the legwork for you and are easier to navigate, it's not that difficult to do it on your own through the National train company directly and you'll save some money. All you need is do a little research (which luckily I've done for you), have some patience and you're guaranteed to get the cheapest fare. I put together a list of train companies in Europe and which countries they are based in (see below). Once you arrive on the site, just look for a little British flag or "EN" in the top right corner to switch the language to English if it is not already the default language. NOTE: You will most likely have to pay in local currency, but even after the exchange rate you're still saving money.
2. Rail passes (Eurail, Interrail) really only make sense if you plan on backpacking through Europe and moving around A LOT. Even so they aren't necessarily the best option. Personally, I've never found the need for a rail pass and they've always been more expensive than buying individual tickets. If you've had experience saving money on a rail pass, please comment below and let me know!
3. High-speed trains, which bring you between major cities, should be booked as far in advance as possible. These trains have a tendency to sell out especially during peak season. Advance purchase will ensure you're getting the train/time you want for the best price. Tickets usually go on sale 3-6 months in advance, depending on the train. If the site says something along the lines of "no trains found for this date" it is likely because it is too early to book and they have not released the schedules yet. Just keep checking back and you'll get it.
4. Commuter or local trains cannot be booked in advance. Most, if not all, go on sale the day of. These are the trains that usually bring you from major cities to smaller towns and do not have assigned seats. They are similar to what the Commuter Rail is to Bostonians, the LIRR is to New Yorkers, etc. If you try to book a ticket in advance for a train that utilizes the commuter train system, you will likely not be able to go through with the transaction. NOTE: Even if only part of your journey includes a commuter train, you will probably not be able to purchase the ticket in advance. In this case, you should purchase the high-speed leg only and then on the day of travel you can purchase the commuter leg.
5. With several budget airlines operating in Europe sometimes you can find cheaper airfare than train fare, but before you jump on that plane think about a few things. While the flight is likely shorter in duration than your train journey, you should factor in the time it takes to get to the airport, check in, drop bags, go through security, etc. as well as what it costs to get to/from the airport on both ends. Also, airports tend to be quite a ways outside the city while train stations will bring you directly to the city center where you can connect to other modes of transportation if needed. Not to mention, trains are often times a nicer, more comfortable experience and you get to see some pretty scenery out your window. The only case flying would make more sense is if you're looking to cover a decent chunk of mileage or if you would need to hop on/off a bunch of trains to reach your destination (i.e. Naples, Italy to Nice, France).

LIST OF NATIONAL TRAIN COMPANIES

NOTE: these companies are based in the countries mentioned but some connect you to other countries. That should not affect your search or pricing. Also, when the site lists all the train options for your route, make sure to check the number of connections and duration, which are always stated, to make sure you're getting as direct and quick a route as possible. If you don't see your country listed, please let me know.

Renfe - Spain (the high speed train is referred to as the AVE)

SNCF - France (the high speed train is referred to as the TGV)

Trenitalia - Italy (the high speed train is referred to as Le Frecce)

CP - Portugal

SNCB - Belgium

CFL - Luxembourg

Thalys - The Netherlands

Eurostar - England to/from Paris and Brussels only

National Rail - within the UK

Irish Rail - Ireland

DB Bahn - Germany (the high speed train is referred to as the ICE)

OBB - Austria

SBB - Switzerland

CD - Czech Republic

MAV - Hungary

HZPP - Croatia

DSB - Denmark

SJ - Sweden

So there you have it and you should be good to go. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to comment below. Lastly, don't forget to validate/stamp your ticket in the machines on the train platform. High speed tickets purchased online in advance don't need it, but any ticket purchased the day of at the station or from a machine needs a stamp or you can face some harsh fines onboard. Happy traveling :)